By Canute Tangwa
I traveled to Bui Division after a 12-year or so absence. Do not wince. Prince Nico Mbarga once sang, home be home, though certain developments make me wary about the notion of home.
We are now in Kumbo Town where the late Bernard Fonlon lies in peace. Indeed, just as the first glowing yellowish sun rays pierced the dry pitch-cold morning air at the Njavnyuy Motor Park, I muttered something to Verla Victor that came straight from the recesses of my heart.
Now, it is difficult to make out what I said to my friend. In fact, the words were spontaneous and imaginative like the bold, rolling, interlocking hills, valleys and plains throughout Bui, which warm, charm, bewitch and enliven any touristic soul.
My pal, a normal Victoria boy or Buea pikin is well established in Kumbo. Emmanuel Obiechina, a Nigerian critic, was sublimely right: you can give soul or meaning only to what you believe in.
Njavnyuy Motor Park and the modern market were scanty. There was no vehicle for Djottin-Noni but there were two for Elak-Oku. I whiled away the time moving around the well-built and fenced market. All the stalls were padlocked. It was quite dusty but clean! The red earth was not too friendly to a virtual Mola like me. On a metal plate at the entrance to the market was inscribed: God Bless Kumbo.
A motor boy approached me and said there was a bendskin (known as achaba in these parts) bound for Djottin. For his pains, I dashed him one hundred francs. When I thought of the hilly terrain, I shuddered. However, the motorbike-taxi rider allayed my fears. Thus, I began a picturesque journey to Djottin.
We rode through the dusty roads from Kumbo to Tadu. Cattle grazed graciously on the savannah hills that can tempt any producer of cowboy films. As we sped past, I waved at a gainako. It was a Sunday. He looked distant as he chewed on his cola nut and waved back.
From the brownish grazing fields of Tadu, we descended to Buh, leaving behind the road that branch off to Oku. To my right, the luxuriant farmlands of Mbiim tucked between high-rise hills with the Kilum (Kirum) hill towering above all others left me breathless. To some, it rivals the plains of Jars in Laos that is famous for its beauty and luxuriance.
On my left, majestic granite hills stood out defiantly against the surrounding environment. As we rode on towards Djottin, I had the impression that we were inspecting a guard of honour mounted by the hills on both sides of the un-tarred, limestone, stony and chalky road. Why my forebears did choose this setting, I wondered.
The sweet smelling scent of ripe oranges (oren) hit my nostrils as we twisted and turned along the road. Here and there, there were settlements surrounded by Arabica coffee that has been cut down for economic reasons. In Buh, the motorbike rider reminded me of the Buh-Djottin farmland conflict.
Then I recalled a story written sometime ago by Desmond Wamey entitled: Pascal's Campaign. Behind one or two hills away, once raged the Oku-Din farmland conflict; too much for a people bound by a common culture and tradition.
Djottin, which is one of the nine villages of Noni, is located in an undulating valley. Its lush vegetation and fertile soils produce coffee, huge bunches of bananas (kigum), beans (koti), corn, cabbages, huckleberry, potatoes (kiyu), oranges, mangoes (mangro), plantains, cowpeas, groundnuts, men and women with fine brains and brawn.
Arguably, the potable water is one of the best in the Province. These make up for electricity, road and information technology deficits.At a village joint in the company of Fali Ndituba and Fali Kidji we gulped fresh, sweet palm wine and talked village development. Just then, the Fon of Kinengti passed by and everybody prostrated.
Then it dawned on me that I had not been to either of the palaces (Kinengti and Fonty). They were all smiles with the creation of a Government Secondary School at Lafele and a Government Technical School. The first batch of students passed out this year scoring well above 60 percent at the GCE Ordinary Level. Some of them would move over to the Government High School Nkor (one of the nine Noni villages) or elsewhere.
Their main headaches are roads and electricity. However, before the government, the Catholic Church was the pillar of development; a primary school, health centre, village hall, an imposing church building, a crafts centre and so on.
I walked towards the market and took in the landscape characterised by hills, valleys, streams and waterfalls. I went back almost twenty years ago when this land of my ancestors inspired me to write a story entitled: "If There Is Blood In My Eyes". For my pains, I received a prize offered by CREPLA.
Nice write-up Canute! I really enjoyed the very descriptive portrayal of Bui. Although I've never been there before, through your piece, I felt like I was seeing it with my own eyes.
Posted by: Kamer | Wednesday, June 10, 2009 at 03:48 AM
Hi Canute.Glad to read your exquisite piece.Massa,how man fit talk to "pala man"-Verla Victor.It is 30 years since we entered Sasse,and it just doesn't seem so long.The mention of his name in your write up brought back old memories.
Fidelis Ngape.
Posted by: Fidelis Ngape | Sunday, August 02, 2009 at 06:07 PM
Hey Chiibugoom, for some reason, I don't know why I had not seen/read this article of yours. I thought I had been following up on your write ups but I swear, that this one sounds so great.I haven't been to our beloved land for a while, but I can see myself there just by reading through this.
Thanks and God bless you!!
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